April burger club meeting at Eulogy ..err.. I mean Bierstube!

Our group!

Our April burger club meeting was to be at Eulogy (136 Chestnut St) but due to an organizational misunderstanding we went to Eulogy’s sister restaurant – Bierstube (206 Market St). We went to Bierstube August of 2012 and had a fine time. This visit was a little different due to the Chef’s special addition of an Elk burger! I was able to try a bite of this burger and I’m HERE TO TELL YOU that it’s awesome. The flavor of the meat is unrivaled by any other burger in the city – in my opinion. The meat is just plain flavorful, I can’t think of another way to describe it. It’s not gamey or tough, just delicious! One burger club member (Megan) had this to say “I liked the meat in particular. It was very tender. I’m glad I tried the elk. Normally, I can’t hunt an elk myself so I am glad someone did it for me”. Truth. If you’re looking for something different (and a little daring) I would definitely tell you to hurry yourself over to Bierstube.

Also on their menu is the dragon burger (which is what I ordered) – drachen, a spicy meat blend stuffed with blue cheese, breathes fire from this burger on a kaiser roll. This burger packs a punch, the spicy sausage-blended meat patty is simply delicious. It’s not too spicy if you’re worried – just right. The blue cheese, which is actually stuffed INTO the burger, cools things out for a delightful overall taste. The bun holds things together well but isn’t much to write home about. I learned only after my meal that any burger can be requested on the pretzel roll (that the German burger comes on). In the future I would request to have that. I love pretzel rolls so much – I wish I could just buy a dozen of them and use them for every sandwich.

I was also lucky enough to have a bite of the aforementioned German burger. The German burger is topped w/fried knockwurst, sauerkraut and muenster cheese on a pretzel roll. For the love of all that is not sauerkraut-loving, put that stuff on the side! I think kraut is an acquired taste that I have not yet developed – maybe one day. Burger Club Member Megan said “I thought that the toppings were great with the exception of the sauerkraut on the German burger. Just because Gushers are American, doesn’t mean I put that on my fried chicken”. I wholeheartedly agree. This burger is pretty dang good and I would definitely bring an out-of-towner to sample it. Similar to the Elk burger, you’re just not going to find this anywhere else. It’s like two meals in one with a burger patty topped with a knockwurst. The muenster cheese is too subtle for this burger – it really gets lost in the shuffle. No matter though, the pretzel roll makes up for any slight problems with its salty delicious, egg washed hardiness. All burgers come with delicious thick-cut French fries that I just couldn’t get enough of.

The only major downside of our visit (despite the location mix-up) was the lack of staff in the restaurant. The one lone waitress was responsible for the entire restaurant (a packed house with our party). It took us maybe 45 minutes just to get our drinks! Despite being completely overwhelmed she really kept her composure and was a true professional. After the first taste of our liter mugs everything was just fine. Our burgers came out quickly after our drinks did and everything was cooked to perfection.

Overall we had a great time, despite some start-up problems. I haven’t had a bad meal from Bierstube yet and I don’t think I ever will. Definitely a rare spot in old city that isn’t filled with jerks. Would definitely recommend a trip here! If I haven’t been able to convince you to visit this establishment by now, you should probably go for the full liters of beer. Please see the picture below (with dollar for size reference) for a visual aid.

March 2013: Bainbridge St. Barrel House

The March edition of the Burger Club was hosted by Bainbridge Street Barrel House, a relatively new gastropub in Queen Village.  Our visit was timely, as Craig LaBan just released his own opinion of the place- unfortunately, a “hit or miss” review.  However, he did have one relevant point: “…the message was clear: The best bets here come on a bun.”  Lucky for us, burgers come on a bun.

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The new (or rather, rehabbed) space is definitely beer-centric, with a long bar and equally long beer list.  However, members of the Club were given plenty of tables to fit our small crowd- a comfortable and well-lit, spacious neighborhood restaurant.


We also had plenty of options: four specialty burgers, one pork burger, and one veggie burger (falafel).  While I usually make choices based on adventurous toppings, I was in the mood for a simple burger done right… probably an after-effect of the extreme uniqueness of last month’s burger at Ela.  Thankfully, BSBH offers the “purists’ burger,” a simple sandwich of the house ground beef (8 oz patty), a melted layer of cheddar cheese, and a smear of mayo on a brioche bun ($10).

The bun was a tad on the “bready” side, but it held up well to its fillings and had that shiny, seeded surface for which I will continue to express lots of love. The meat itself was certainly the star, a thick but loosely packed patty with lots of flavor from both seasonings and a little char from the grill.  My medium-rare request came out a little closer to medium (the house temperature of choice), but it was still juicy without being greasy.  The mayo helped counter the dryness of the brioche.  I also loved being able to swap out my fries for a side salad- a mix of romaine, red peppers, crunchy cukes and an avocado based dressing.

The eponymous “Barrel House Burger” is much more of a beast- they really load on the toppings here. This signature burger starts out with the same patty + bun (which is appreciated here to hold everything together!) but adds the following: Muenster cheese, bacon, grilled onions, a house-made IPA-infused mustard, and a super chunky Habanero/cucumber relish.  At $12, this is really on the lower end of the price-range for outrageous burgers in Philly.  They’re very generous with the bacon and cheese, but we found the cucumber relish to be a little.. weird. Cucumbers on a burger? I get that it’s a “relish” but… smaller pieces at least, please.

A bit of a step-down from the Barrel House, but still a whopping sandwich, is the Sally Smothers ($13).  I have no ideas regarding the origin of the name, but I can only imagine it has something to do with the fact that the patty here is smothered with sharp provolone, crispy fried pancetta, fried shallots, and the most precariously perched over-easy egg yolk I’ve ever seen.  Seriously, this thing was hanging onto the edge of oblivion.  One bite and this Yelp-er describes it well- “your plate looks like a crime scene.”



 Another notch down the “crazy scale” brings us to the Burger Meister ($13).  This guy simplifies life a little while still providing a few knock-out punches of flavor.  Crumbled blue cheese and a “raisin himbeer mostarda”– a fancy name for a mixture of caramelized raisins, a raspberry liqueur, and a mustard-flavored syrup– pair excellently, while a handful of spinach provides necessary freshness.

 

Spinach on the side.The not-really-a-burger category has one member- the Porkenstein ($15).  This is a SERIOUS sandwich, not for the fainthearted.  A 7 oz patty of ground pork starts us off, topped by a slab of pork belly and house cured ham.  Melted Monterey Jack cheese help separate the layers of pork, and the whole pile of pig is topped with a slightly radioactive-looking “secret sauce.”  I personally can not imagine consuming this, but I’m sure plenty of pork-lovers are rejoicing.  Our new Burger Club friend finished off the whole thing (and loved it!), so folks, it’s possible.

Our experience at Bainbridge St. Barrel House was pretty great.  We did have a long wait for our burgers, but we understand that there are space limitations in a kitchen, and chefs typically don’t need to make 25+ burgers all at once.  The staff was apologetic (head chef even tweeted a personal apology for the wait) and took good care of us while we waited.  Everyone seemed to enjoy their meal (burgers were super solid!) and of course we always love catching up with the Burger Club crew.  See you guys in a few weeks!

625 S. 6th St

February 2013: Ela

February’s meeting seemed to come up extra fast due to the short month- something we certainly weren’t going to complain about since we were looking forward to our first encounter with Ela.  A bit different than our typical Burger Club meeting spots (which tend to be large, bar-centric spots since these can fit a large group and usually have a solid burger), Ela is more upscale and gourmet.

Located in prime real estate right off of South Street in Queen Village, the restaurant is actually much larger than I imagined.  The regular menu has a concise list of appetizers and entrees, which doesn’t include the burger.  Actually, the burger is a special item on the bar menu, and is produced in a very limited quantity each night.  Nothing like making your burger a bit exclusive to drum up some attention.  However, Ela agreed to produce more burgers just for us.  Or, more than the typical ten, at least.

Unfortunately, the hostess and waiters didn’t seem thrilled to have us for the evening, and relegated us to either the back room (with only four tables) or the bar area.  Since they knew we would have 30+ attendees, it seemed a bit odd.  Even worse, once our group reached 29 (yes, 29), the hostess refused to allow any more burger-seekers.  She would “allow” us to eat from the regular menu in the dining room, but obviously that’s not what we wanted.  We were sad to see several small groups turned away (please come back next month!).

The waitresses were slow to take drink orders and even slower to ask our meat temperature preference. But, the wait for the kitchen was almost unbearable.  We typically meet at 7PM and are wrapping up by 8PM- it’s just a bunch of burgers (well, and good company!).  However, we waited until almost 8PM just to be served- by which time I think there was a good deal of hanger abounding.

Apologies for the pictures- I accidentally grabbed the macro lens.

On arrival the burger looked great- a decent sized patty, an adorable bun and some good melty cheese.  However, there were a LOT of grumbles about the “tots” served on the side- averaging about ten fried potato cubes.  Didn’t matter much to me- I’m there for the burger not the sides- but many in our group weren’t thrilled.  I actually can’t even comment on their tastiness as I donated all to my sad hungry husband.

Now, on to the burger critique.  A housemade black sesame bun was wonderful- soft on the inside but a crispy exterior, with a smooth, shiny (eggwash?) glaze.  It was really perfect in containing the meat, holding up well to the thick patty.  The accompaniments include a small pile of watercress, some melty sharp Cabot cheddar, a few sauteed shiitakes, and “sauce.”  Yup, just sauce.  According to Chef Jason Cichonski, it’s made with “like, 400,000 ingredients.”  We can tell you one thing- it has a very Asian profile.

The meat– I can only say I’m still stumped about both the color and the texture.  Half of our group was panicking because of the color– almost bright red, regardless of what the cooking temperature request.  The rawer the better, in my opinion, but some of us are scared of raw ground beef (for good reason), and weren’t up for eating a patty of beef tartare.  However, apparently the “sauce” is mixed into the house ground beef, providing this coloring that doesn’t disappear with more time on the grill.

After eating half the burger, I finally put my finger on the patty texture.  Hot dogs.  Chopped up hot dogs.  Sort of chewy.. with a slight rubberiness.  After proclaiming this to my table, I think I ruined their next few bites.  Sorry!  It didn’t necessarily detract from the overall experience, but it was just weird.  Should this burger be on everyone’s must eat list?  No.  Was it different from anything else we’ve had?  Definitely.  However, our overall experience with the staff at Ela, along with the sad limit of 29 burgers, has most of us hesitant to return to try the regular menu.  Looking forward to a more accommodating meeting next month at Bainbridge Barrel House (and hopefully some great specials– c’mon Steph!).

 

January 2013: City Tap House

We’ve skipped a Burger Club meeting or two in the past due to the fact that the meetings were held at restaurants we’ve been to before (does anyone else do this, or we are just slackers?).  This month, we faced the same problem;  however, we’d never tried the burgers at City Tap House, so felt the trip was well worth it. Besides, we work nearby and honestly, it hurts us to miss out on seeing all of you burger-y friends!  For those of you who haven’t visited (and missed the meeting), City Tap House is a serious food and drink mecca.  To start, it’s enormous, with several different dining areas, including the best outdoor seating in the city (although that is really only open during the summer months).  On top of that, the menus are extensive on both the solid and liquid sides, with constant special events and a number of private parties daily.  It’s just a cool place.

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The menu includes three burgers, a good variety for different tastes.  The overwhelming choice of our group was The Tap Burger ($14 but since we’re special, we were graciously granted 20% off).  Described on the menu as being served with “crispy pork belly, lancaster cheddar, agrodolce onions, beer gastrique, dijonaise,” the all beef burger sounds too good to be true.  So many toppings! Lots of great flavors! Meat on meat!  Alas, the description certainly oversold the burger.

The first problem was the bun: a bit too big and bready.  We’ve been spoiled by many brioche burger buns, whose buttery texture retains lots of moisture and doesn’t crumble.  Regular buns have a much dryer crumb and tend to fill up/dry out your mouth if you take a large bite (jeez, we’re picky).

The meat itself was well-cooked but not particularly flavorful- again, we’re just spoiled with great meat options in this city, a little ground brisket here, a little bacon mixed in there.  A small square of pork belly didn’t cover the entire patty, and was a little bit dry and chewy.  Overall, the burger didn’t fare well in Burger Club ratings, with overall scores averaging just a 2.86/5 in the Taste category.

The second option on the menu is the Free Range PA Turkey Burger– which, as noted on the menu, has by one source or another been named Best of Philly ($14).  This burger again has a stellar list of accompaniments: avocado, brie, curry dijon aioli, lettuce, and tomato.  We didn’t try this burger but were able to snap some pics and get an opinion or two.  Our resident non-meat-eater (hi Megan!) claimed it was very salty, overpowering the toppings.  We didn’t hear from anyone else who ate it– love to get opinions from more of you!

I truly believe we would have left as a group of happier eaters if everyone had ordered the third and final option: the Lamb Burger ($15).  The novelty of a lamb patty helped make the meat super flavorful, with a good char and a soft pink center.  The bun had sesame seeds, lending flavor to the mix even though it was still a bit too big and dry.

The toppings were a wonderful mix– actually proving the opposite effect as the other two burgers, as they were executed in a way that made them even better than they sounded on paper.  Fennel salad (with radishes and arugula), smoked paprika aioli, kalamata olives, and feta yogurt- lots of Mediterranean flavors that provided much needed moisture (to counter that bun), coolness, and a good mix of textures.

I would absolutely revisit Tap House just for this burger- it was wonderful.  The side of fries was also just fine- hot and crispy, and a generous portion.  Our first meeting of 2013 may not have found us the best burger in the city, but it was absolutely a success– tons of new faces, a fun spot, and an unexpectedly great lamb sandwich.  And, the great thing about Burger Club, you always know another meeting is just around the corner!

Burger Toppings

This week I’d like to take a moment to discuss a topic that doesn’t get a lot of attention – burger toppings. We here at the burger club take toppings VERY seriously, it’s one of the main factors that we vote on to determine the value of a burger. Toppings can range from predictable to outrageous and everything in-between. For a restaurant that might want to try out a new burger, trying to decide what kind of toppings to offer may be harder than one might expect. Do you offer a bunch of options like cheeburger cheeburger (pictured below)? Or do YOU determine the combination and theme for the customer? There are almost too many options!

When I’m looking at a menu the burger toppings are what I think of first in my mind (and in my mouth). Am I going for a meat on meat? Do I want a lot of cheese? Would I rather something light and natural to balance out the fatty mcfatterson burger? There are just so many different combinations, it’s important not to get into a rut of only ordering the same toppings all the time.

When I was a bit younger I would exclusively opt for a bacon & blue cheese burger wherever I went. Lately I’ve been much more interested in the variety of toppings that this burger world has to offer. Lately I have seen many places (Spiga, Red Owl, PYT) making VERY sweet topping combinations. The house burger at Red Owl (pictured at left) is so sweet it even has raisins in it. Many folks from the burger club found the sweetness of this burger to be too much, but I think they need to just open their minds (and hearts) a little. The sweet topping from Spiga consists of an onion Mostarda which is so nicely paired with herbed goat cheese and applewood smoked bacon. I found this flavor palette to be near perfect. The sweet, salty, creamy topping paired with the richness of the burger is simply unbeatable, IMO. I see this sweet topping trend to be something we’re going to see a lot more of in the future, but is the American public ready for it??

I studied abroad in Sydney, AU and while they don’t really seem to have a national food or style of cooking (other than BBQ) they did put a little twist on the classic burger that I haven’t found anywhere else. I’m sure other parts of the world do this but I haven’t found it – they put a big slice of beetroot on their burgers. I know what you’re thinking “EWWWWW BEETS????” but let me tell you, once you’ve gotten over the idea of it you’ll want it on every burger ever. The beet has this rich, sweet, subtle flavor that compliments the meat in the best possible way. I wish some American burger joints would try this out.

Lastly I’d like to pass along a little vote from the burger club about toppings. I only proposed the question to the group YESTERDAY but I think their findings are nevertheless important. Apparently everyone likes cheese. Duh.

I hope that in the future we see many more creative burger combinations of toppings. I think this is what will really bring the burger into another category of food. Many posts ago (after a burger & wine tasting event) I prophesized that the burger is becoming the new “it” thing, more of a luxury item than it ever has been – and I think that with the new trend in toppings this is becoming more of a reality. I hope to see more of this and one day the BURGER will rule all! Till then, my burger friends!

December meeting: Red Owl Tavern

Story by Alyssa and Julianne of two eat philly

This month’s Burger Club “meeting” was held at Red Owl Tavern, the newbie restaurant in the also-newbie Hotel Monaco in Old City.  The Monaco is the second Philadelphia area hotel in the Kimpton line, following just a few years after one of my personal favorites, the Hotel Palomar near Rittenhouse.  Executive Chef Guillermo Tellez formerly worked at Square 1682 at the Hotel Palomar, and has created an “indie steakhouse” while maintaining the basic tenets of a tavern.  You may have read a scathing review of Red Owl from Phyllis Stein-Novack at South Philly Review- we hoped her negative comments didn’t shine through in the burger!

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The restaurant spans a long corner slot at 5th and Chestnut (nobody from our group could come up with the previous use of this building) with the hotel entrance immediately adjacent.  The pastry chef works in a tiny kitchen near the entrance, enticing us all with a display of pies and cookies before we even ate dinner.  We had a space reserved upstairs, in a loft complete with all the loft-y accoutrements: lots of dark wood and black metal and a few uplights (Mrs. Stein-Novack’s complaints of lack of light are certainly founded).

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Unlike some of the other restaurants we’ve convened at, Red Owl only has a single burger, the “Big Red Owl Burger”- the waiters simply had to ask us how we wanted our meat cooked.  Thankfully we had a delicious distraction while we waited- housemade truffled popcorn.  This stuff was insanely good and super addictive.  Our table of ten went through several buckets of it in half an hour- warm, salty, buttery with a kick of truffle oil.

The burgers all arrived almost simultaneously- impressive for a group of 20+.  Of course, this means that there were probably a few mix-ups and a few overdone burgers, but that’s pretty much par for the course.  The burger is described (on the online menu) as topped with crispy bacon, cheddar, herb sauce and onion marmalade, and is a hefty serving living up to it’s $15 price tag.

In examining the burger upon its arrival, it’s clear there are a few changes from the menu description.  Shredded lettuce and tomato are little extras (fine by me but not by all others) and the “onion marmalade” clearly had raisins within.  I don’t like raisins, and I definitely don’t want them on my burger next to lettuce and bacon.  That’s just weird.  Thankfully, the mix consists primarily of  caramelized onions which were easy to remove.

The bun was a good fit for the meat, with a floury surface and a light texture.  The bacon and cheddar added the necessary salt and grease to the well seasoned lean beef.  The patty isn’t monstrously thick, making it that much harder for the chef to reach the requested medium-rare.  The lack of pink didn’t kill this burger, though- a definite sign of a well prepared sandwich made with quality ingredients.

Other club members decided the onion marmalade/raisins really made the burger- a hint of cinnamon and sweetness was reminiscent of an empanada.  I’m still not convinced that either cinnamon or raisins belong in a burger, but to each their own- and again, a nod to the chef for making such an odd topping a hit with many in our group.  The crispy fries lightly coated in shaved pepper jack cheese were a good complement to the meal – a special touch to an otherwise normal side.  The ratings are all in, and Red Owl has earned the #6 spot in Burger Club history- a solid placement for such a new establishment.

Red Owl Tavern

433 Chestnut Street